How to cut petals on the clutch basket. Knife from the clutch basket. The procedure for replacing bearings on VAZ cars

Knife from clutch basket. How to make a knife with your own hands at home. Knife made from scrap materials. DIY knife made from scrap materials. From the petals of the clutch basket you can make an original and convenient knife. The work ahead is quite difficult, but the result will be interesting and quite practical.

Materials

To make a knife from a clutch basket with your own hands, you will need:

clutch basket petal;
stainless steel tube less than 2 cm in diameter;
vice;
grinder and cutting discs;
protective glasses;
grinding machine.

Step 1. First you will need to cut the petal out of the clutch basket. This work is difficult and dangerous, so be sure to wear safety glasses and thick work clothes. You need to cut out the petals carefully, since clutch baskets are made differently for different cars and there may be springs in them. The latter are dangerous because they can jump off and hit the grinder. Work extremely carefully.

Step 2. Cut several petals from the circle with petals. When cutting metal, it can become hot. As soon as the metal begins to change color, let it cool and only then continue working. A container of cold water and a rag will help speed up this process. Simply soak a rag in water and gently wipe the metal circle with it.

Step 3. Cut a small piece from the pipe. Determine its length yourself. This piece will be the handle of the knife. Clamp it in a vice and continue to squeeze it until the tube takes an oval shape.

Step 4. One side of the petal will fit into the handle tube. In order for it to fit tightly, it needs to be sharpened and adjusted. When adjusting, keep a container of cold water handy at all times. As soon as the metal starts to heat up, immerse it in water and begin further work after it has cooled down.

Step 5. Insert the treated part of the petal into the handle of the knife. He should not enter her freely. It needs to be driven there with a hammer. This is the only way the knife will be strong and reliable enough.

Step 6. During the previous step, nicks and burrs may form on the inside of the tube. They can be removed using a narrow, long stripper.

Step 7 Shape the knife blade and sharpen the blade. While working, also cool the metal in a container of water.

Step 8 Use a knife sharpening stone to finally polish the blade.

Step 9 You can make the simplest and most basic sheath from bamboo cork. They will protect both the blade from damage and your hands from cuts, for example, when carrying a knife in a bag with tools, etc.

The clutch is a simple and important mechanism in a car. It serves to disconnect the engine and transmission when braking or changing gears, as well as for the inversion process when starting. In addition, the clutch has a safety function (safety of transmission components under heavy loads and dynamic shocks. With confidence, the most significant parts in the design of the clutch include the release bearing, which is located between the clutch basket and its drive mechanism. Its function is to separate the discs by pressing the petals and disengage the clutch. The bearing rotates due to the rotation of the gearbox shaft, and the clutch fork attached to the clutch moves it along the shaft itself. Two types of bearings:

• ball (moves with a cable);

  

• hydraulic (using a hydraulic system, reduces the pressure on the pedal).

  

The structural block of the vase basket consists of:
Types of clutch basket according to action:

Possible damage to release bearings

The service life of the release bearing on a VAZ is determined by the driver’s driving style. If you hold the clutch for a very long time with the gear engaged, this will increase the load on the bearing and damage the mechanism. If this part malfunctions, an extraneous sound is observed in the operation of the shafts. To find out the cause of uncharacteristic noises, start the engine and depress the clutch:
• the noise disappeared when pressed - most often indicates a gearbox malfunction;
• the sounds intensified when pressed - there is a malfunction of the release bearing, requiring its urgent replacement;

The procedure for replacing bearings on VAZ cars

Step by step steps:

1. Disassembling and dismantling the gearbox.
2. Disconnecting the spring holders from the coupling.
3. Removing the release lever from the guide from the bushing.
4. Uncoupling the holder and removing the worn mechanism.
5. Installing and replacing a new mechanism part, checking for gaps.
6. Fixing the support square on the fork in the correct position (it is obligatory to move it to the side).
7. Thoroughly lubricate the sleeve, shaft and bearing with grease.
8. Securing the coupling using a spring clamp, the shaft and installing the clutch basket, checking the gap between them.
9. Fixing the coupling and fork using a holder.
10. Gearbox installation.
11. Testing and operation.

It is important to remember that if there is a large gap between the release fork, this can lead to difficulty shifting gears. If you do not have basic knowledge of VAZ auto mechanics, then you should seek help from professionals.

Signs of a faulty VAZ clutch basket: replacement and repair

Main indicators of mechanism damage:

• Difficulty getting the car to full power;
• extraneous noise is heard when pressing the clutch pedal;
• slipping and jerking of the car when starting to move.

Main defects:

• wear of the rubbing material between the clutch discs (appears from loads, when oil gets on the linings);
• failure of the VAZ clutch release bearing causes breakage of the petals of the basket;
• destruction of sensor springs due to frequent starts with slipping.

It is important to purchase a main oil seal for the motor and a main shaft oil seal so as not to dismantle the gearbox due to their leakage. The sequence of operation for replacing this part on a VAZ:

• Before removing the clutch and disconnecting the gearbox, mark the location of all rotating parts on the diagram;
• disconnecting the gear shift lever in the cabin and the gearbox itself;
• removing the bolts between the basket and the flywheel;
• dismantling the driven disk, shaft, coupling and bearing (pay attention to the clutch fork, its condition, clearance);
• replacing the clutch bearing and checking clearances.

Installation of the clutch and gearbox is carried out strictly in reverse chronology.

Oil seal function on a VAZ car

The oil seal is a fuse that protects the engine from fluid leakage. But they do not always provide complete impermeability and protection against leakage. It happens that this part also leaks. The reasons for their occurrence:

• quality of oil and its consistency;
• improper part size or gaps;
• oil level.

Therefore, always monitor the quantity of oil and its quality. When replacing, use oil intended for a specific car model and this will protect your VAZ from leaks.

Why is it necessary to adjust the clutch?

Clutch adjustment is required when a large gap or its absolute absence is detected when pressing the clutch pedal.

The pedal free play should be from 0.4 to 2.0 mm.

If there is a deviation, the system must be adjusted.

Replacing the clutch disc oil seal basket - The most common problem that happens with the clutch in classic VAZ cars (from 2101 to 2107) is a breakdown of the basket. It happens, for the most part, not through the fault of the driver, but due to imperfections in the design. On the basket there is a so-called washer, it is attached to three petals. When the clutch is pressed, the washer is pressed against the basket, and the petals bend.

Thus, after some time, the metal becomes tired and the petals burst. Basically, they do not burst all at once, but one at a time.

This breakdown may be accompanied by the following symptoms: inability to engage the gear; when starting from a stop, the car moves jerkily (the clutch does not engage smoothly); the gear does not engage, but if the car is rolled forward a little, the gear engages; gears are engaged with more force than necessary.

The second, no less common breakdown is the “breaking through” of the crankshaft oil seal on the flywheel side. You can determine this breakdown by looking at the place where the gearbox bell is attached to the engine; if there are oil leaks at the bottom, then the oil seal is leaking.

This breakdown can happen due to the fact that you simply overfilled the engine with oil, as well as due to the quality of the oil seal itself (we all know what quality the parts are made at VAZ).

Third, a breakdown that most often occurs in the clutch area is a breakdown of the clutch disc itself. This depends on the driver's driving style and the quality of the part. You can determine the breakdown if the clutch does not engage, a grinding noise is heard from its side (the linings are worn out, metal is coming out), while driving the engine runs at high speeds, but there is no speed (maybe you just need to adjust the clutch cylinder rod, which presses on the clutch fork ).

You may ask, “How are these breakdowns united?”, but the answer is simple, they are united by the fact that to eliminate them you need to remove the gearbox from the car. If it so happens that you have one of these breakdowns, there is no need to despair, everything can be repaired quite quickly (if you have all the tools, a little experience in twisting nuts and instructions at hand, such as this one, to do everything without errors) .

Replacing the clutch disc oil seal basket on a VAZ:

First, let's make a list of the tools and equipment you need.

1. In order to carry out all the work under the car, you need an installation pit or overpass.

2. A key for the ratchet (to replace the oil seal, you will need to remove the flywheel, and to unscrew its mounting bolts, you will need to hold the crankshaft so that it does not spin).

3. Socket and open-end wrenches, for: 10 - 12 - 13 - 14 - 17 and 19.

4. Flat screwdriver (for removing the old oil seal from its seat).

5. Hammer (well, where would we be without it).

6. Pliers.

7. Collar.

8. Special universal joint (will be needed to unscrew the mounting bolts, gearbox bell to the engine housing).

9. Torque wrench.

10. Wheel stands (shoes).

11. The gearbox input shaft, or a special pin, machined to the required size (it will be necessary to align the clutch disc relative to the basket, this will greatly facilitate the reverse installation of the gearbox).

12. TaD-17 or Nigrol (for lubricating threaded connections).

13. Chalk or pencil.

14. Rags (all parts must be clean, they will need to be wiped).

15. At least one assistant (not necessary, but it makes the job a lot easier).

Well, if everything on the list is there, you can get to work. We drive the car into a pit or overpass. Let's remember the safety rules. We put “shoes” under the wheels. Disconnect the battery (remove the terminals or disconnect the ground). We climb under the car, using a 17 and 13 wrench, unscrew the handbrake cable, do not forget to remove the release spring with pliers before doing this.

Using 12mm wrenches, unscrew the bolts (4 of them) securing the propeller shaft to the rear axle gearbox. Using keys 17 -19, unscrew the driveshaft from the soft connection to the gearbox (there are 3 bolts). After that, using a 14mm wrench, unscrew the fastening of the driveshaft outboard bearing to the bottom of the car. That's it, the driveshaft is in our hands, we move it to the side, away, so as not to interfere.

The next step is to unscrew the clutch cylinder from the gearbox; it is secured there with two bolts, 13mm wrench. When you unscrew it, tie it to any suspension arm so that it does not interfere in the future. We unscrew the speedometer cable from the gearbox using pliers, and also disconnect the wires from the reverse sensor.

Before unscrewing the gearbox, remove the gear shift knob itself. To do this, remove the protective cover and carpeting. To remove the handle, you need to press on it and, using a screwdriver, pull out the plastic sleeve (the sleeve inside the handle, from the bottom) that holds the handle to the gear shift lever.

Now let's proceed to removing the gearbox itself. It is held on by 4 bolts, with a turnkey of 17. Unscrewing the two bottom bolts is not a problem, everything is done from the pit and nothing gets in the way. But the top two will be a bit of a hassle.

We open the hood, look for the first bolt, it is located above the steering column, between the body and the engine housing (you need to stick your hand in the letter G and feel). You can unscrew it using the required 17mm socket, cardan joint and wrench (you can also bend a 17mm open end wrench into the letter G and try to unscrew the bolt with it).

If the gearbox has not been removed before, then the bolt will interfere with unscrewing the mounting loop, it can be broken, its presence is not necessary. Second, you need to look for the bolt on the opposite side, above the starter (we repeat the old combination, put your hand in the letter G between the body and the engine and feel for it).

We unscrew it using the same method as the previous one. Now, the gearbox can be removed, tilt it down, and pull it towards you with rotational movements. We put it aside, you can check the release bearing, release fork, input shaft and seals.

To remove the basket and clutch disc, unscrew 8 bolts, with a 12 wrench. We remove everything together, do not forget the order in which the parts are installed (which side is the clutch disc). We put the key on the ratchet, hold it or somehow jam it (the crankshaft should not spin) so that you can unscrew the flywheel mounting bolts.

We do not unscrew the bolts completely, before removing the flywheel, mark its position relative to the crankshaft with chalk or a pencil (the shaft and flywheel are balanced on a stand; if you install the flywheel incorrectly, the mechanism will be unbalanced). The marks are made, remove the flywheel.

Now, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the oil seal cavity protection (a sheet of tin that goes around the circle of the flywheel, on the engine). Unscrew the cap that holds the oil seal. Using a screwdriver, pull out the old oil seal, doing the procedure carefully so as not to damage the seat.

Well, the disassembly operations are completed. Let's begin the reverse process. We wipe the seat under the oil seal with a rag, carefully insert a new one, make sure that it stands level, without distortions. Screw the lid and tin protection back on. We put the flywheel back, do not forget about the marks. We tighten the bolts using a torque wrench with a torque of 6.22–8.92 kgcm. We check whether the flywheel is seated in place and crank the engine using the ratchet.

Let's move on to the clutch. We check the clutch disc and the thickness of its linings. If the linings are thin and the factory grooves are not visible on them, it is better to replace the disc. We look at the basket to see if there is any visible damage on it, and check the washer mounting tabs. If they have cracks, breaks, or do not align completely, it is better to replace them (stores sell special kits consisting of new petals and rivets to rivet them in place). If you don’t want unnecessary headaches and want to be completely confident in your car, it’s better to buy a new basket and drive calmly.

If you are satisfied with the condition of the basket and disc (you replaced them or they were in good condition), you can safely put the clutch mechanism back. The basket fastening bolts do not need to be tightened tightly; first, insert the input shaft (if any) or a special pin and center the disk relative to the basket. Without extending the finger, we clamp the basket fastening bolts using a torque wrench with a force of 1.95–3.15 kgcm. Now we pull out the finger, that’s it, you can install the gearbox in place. Reassembly must be done in reverse order.

We wipe all threaded connections clean with a rag, lubricate them with lubricant from the list above (depending on what is available), this is done so that in the future, disassembly is easy and without problems (threads breaking, edges licking, etc.). Don't forget about: speedometer cable; connecting wires to the reverse sensor; tensioning the handbrake cable to the desired state; switching on after all work has been completed.

Well, if the work was completed successfully and everything works, I can congratulate you, you did well. On average, it takes about 4-8 hours to complete all the work, depending on how the bolts are unscrewed and tightened, and whether any additional problems arise. As I said above, “The main thing is to remember the safety rules?”, because life and health are most valuable.

Replacing a clutch disc on a classic video:Replacing the basket, clutch disc and oil seal on a VAZ Replacing the basket, clutch disc and oil seal on a VAZ Replacing the basket, clutch disc and oil seal on a VAZ

All Japanese cars with manual and semi-automatic transmissions have a clutch disc with linings riveted onto it. Sooner or later these linings wear out and the car stops. It usually starts like this. First, the free play of the clutch pedal decreases on its own. If your car's clutch uses a cable, the free play of the clutch can be restored, although the linings will continue to wear out. And if your car is equipped with a hydraulic clutch drive, you will have to watch with anguish as the car starts moving, first in one position of the clutch pedal, then in another, and now there is no free play of the clutch at all.

Now expect that one fine day, when you are in direct gear, planning to overtake someone, and press the gas pedal to the floor, the car will not increase its speed, although the engine speed will begin to increase. Then this will happen in third gear, then in second. In this situation, you can check whether the clutch slave cylinder rod is recessed freely, whether it is jammed (this happens due to dirt in the brake fluid and when instead of brake fluid such as “Neva”, “Tom”, “Rosa”, etc. used some kind of surrogate, but it happens rarely, then the clutch slips in all gears at once), and if everything is in order with it, you need to change the lining on the clutch disc.

To do this, you need to remove the gearbox, remove the clutch basket, and the clutch disc itself with burnt linings will fall out into your hands. If you have a jeep in which the transfer case is “fastened” to the rear of the gearbox, and the side members are not bolted to the frame, but welded, then you can’t easily remove the gearbox (together with the transfer case). Down - the welded spar is in the way; back - again the spar; up - body. The only thing left to do is forward. And there is the engine and front axle. Since you don’t want to “unscrew” the entire car (it’s generally in good working order), there is only one option left - to move the gearbox as far back as possible. In this case, through the gap formed between the engine and gearbox, you can unscrew the 6 bolts securing the clutch basket and move it back, close to the release bearing. If you previously managed to move the gearbox back 9-10 cm, then you can remove the clutch disc. Now that you are holding the clutch disc in your hands, take a closer look at it. If at least somewhere the wear has reached the rivet head or the control mark has been erased, the lining must be changed.

Typically, clutch linings wear unevenly, i.e. One pad is worn out, but the other one still seems to be able to run and ride. This happens because the clutch disc, which should “float” freely on the splines of the input shaft, does not do this, because dirt and rust on these splines jam the disc, so it only works on one side. If you decide to replace only one pad, because... the second one does not seem to be worn out yet, then immediately abandon this idea, because when the clutch slips, the material of the linings, including the whole one, has almost turned into coal due to the high temperature, in other words, if the lining has been subjected to thermal effects (clutch- sometimes skidded), then its mechanical strength raises serious doubts. The thickness of the entire overlay should be 3.5 mm. And if you removed your slipping disc, and its pads are 3.2-3.3 thick, then installing new pads won’t last long. Place the clutch disc on the pressure plate of the basket and estimate the distance between the outer plane of the clutch disc and the plane on which the basket “rests”.

Clutch disc profile. You need to rivet the lining to the clutch disc at the convex place, otherwise the entire lining-disc-lining package will turn out loose and the holding force of the rivet will decrease, because it will work on "bending" and not on "shear"

This distance determines how hard the basket will clamp the clutch disc when it is installed on the flywheel. If this distance is less than three millimeters, then estimate whether you will have these three millimeters after installing the new linings, otherwise the clutch will slip immediately after changing the linings, and the car will not be able to move off sharply, “with a squeal.” Before drilling out the rivets, take a close look at how the old trims are riveted. Look at the disk from the side and notice that the blade of the disk itself, to which the linings are riveted, is not even, but has a profile of an elongated letter “S”, only horizontal, and the linings are pressed to this petal on the bulges. As a result, when the clutch disc is compressed, the linings are slightly springy, but, at the same time, are rigidly connected to the disc itself.

This is done in order to compensate for the possible non-parallelism of all working surfaces in the clutch, the presence of which can cause jerking when the clutch is engaged. The rivets must be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm from the side of the lining, i.e. You need to drill out the “head” of the rivet. At the same time, the rivet will begin to rotate and heat up the material of the lining underneath, at this time you need to pull the lining with your fingers so that the rotating head of the rivet burns through the lining.

In this way, you can easily remove both pads, and the rivets themselves, protruding from the petals of the discs, can be easily removed by cutting them in the middle with wire cutters. However, you can use other methods to free the clutch disc from old linings and rivets. Having freed the disk, we take it and one pad and go to the store or market. The disk is needed so that you can buy rivets that exactly match the diameter of the holes on the petals of your disk. Covers for any Japanese car can be installed from domestic cars. Here you should adhere to the following rules. On the same car, with the same engine, there may be different clutch discs and, accordingly, linings of different diameters used, so be skeptical about advice to buy linings in advance, they say, I changed mine, they are the same ones here. We somehow received two Toyota Corona cars of the 1983 model for repair at the same time (the year of manufacture, however, was different: 1983 and 1984). They had the same 3A engines, but different gearboxes, different clutch baskets and clutch discs of different diameters (and splines). Rivets can also be different.

Perhaps in the previous life of your car, the clutch linings were already changed and (there were no rivets of the required diameter) holes were drilled in the disk for a different diameter of the rivets. Therefore, until you have the removed clutch in your hands, do not buy anything in advance. You should only buy linings reinforced with special threads and brass shavings, which match the texture of the material and color with the “original” linings. Do not buy black, even reinforced, linings. These can be very fragile, not designed for high speeds, linings from the clutch of some winch, which will last no more than 2-3 hours. Since the whole world is abandoning linings with asbestos filler, linings reinforced with fiberglass (also black with white threads peeking out) have appeared on sale. This won't work either.

Firstly, the material of these pads is very loose, and you will have a hard time drilling recesses for the rivet heads. Secondly, when working with these pads, fiberglass flies out of them. It may not be as harmful as asbestos, but it is very unpleasant. And thirdly, the fiberglass reinforcement of these linings is made in such a way that they cannot be cut (turned on a lathe to fit the required dimensions), because the strength of the entire lining is compromised, because it uses a complexly interwoven structure, the violation of which impairs all the properties of the lining. It is sometimes impossible to buy overlays that exactly match your size. For example, the linings on a Toyota Mark-II with a 1985 1S engine are such that the linings on a VAZ 2106 are a little too small, and the linings on a GAZ-24 are a little too big. Therefore, buy those that are a little too big, they can be turned along the outer diameter, but you will have to put up with small losses on the inner diameter. And also about cutting the linings. In the example with the Toyota Mark-II, the linings from the GAZ-24 could not be cut - the dimensions of the basket allowed this, but in this case the distance from the outer edge of the lining to the rivet would increase relative to what was provided by the Japanese designers. This would result in greater stress on the rivets, i.e. the leverage of the force that acts on the rivet joint would increase. If the internal diameter of the selected linings is less than the required one, it must be bored on a lathe so that it is equal to the diameter of the “original” lining.

When the linings are selected, you need to apply them on both sides of the clutch disc in the way they will work, i.e. with the marks, if any, facing out, then remove the clutch disc and place it on top. Now this entire “package” needs to be leveled and clamped with a clamp. After this, drill a hole with a drill whose diameter is equal to the diameter of the holes in the disk (and the diameter of the rivets). If the rivet is long, push it into the hole to fix both pads and the disk relative to each other; if the rivet is short, you can use a piece of drill bit of the same diameter as the rivet for this purpose. Now the clamp can be removed, the entire “package” can be aligned again and clamped again with the same clamp, but on the other side, i.e. opposite the previously drilled hole. After this, you can drill all the holes for the rivets.

To do this, you must use a drilling machine, otherwise the holes will not be vertical relative to the plane of the disk. When the holes are ready, remove the clamp and the fixing rivet (a piece of the drill) and, again aligning the entire “package,” carefully move the clutch disc between the linings, i.e. since it should stand, then secure this “package” now with two rivets (or two drills). Mark everything with a pencil so that, even if you have to scatter the trims, you can then put them in exactly the same place, with the same side, so that all the drilled holes line up again. Look at the clutch disc and decide which hole you will start drilling for the rivet head. Mark with a pencil all these holes in one overlay, then in the other. All that remains is to choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the rivet head, sharpen it according to the profile of the rivet head, then (required!) blunt the cutting edges of the drill with sandpaper (make the sharp cutting angle of the drill obtuse) and you can use an electric drill to start making recesses for the rivet heads. A dull drill will eliminate the effect of self-feeding of the drill when drilling holes, and the drill itself, as it would with a conventional drill, will not “fly” through; on the contrary, you will have to press on the drill to drill the hole with a force directly proportional to the degree dullness of the drill.

When all the holes for the rivet heads are ready on both plates, the remaining hole must be drilled through with the same drill. If, after drilling, the edges of the holes protrude due to the characteristics of the material, they must be treated with coarse emery cloth. Now all that remains is to rivet first one overlay, then the other. Insert two fixing rivets (or two drills), insert the first rivet, knock it down with light blows of a hammer, nip off the excess metal with pliers if the rivet sticks out from the disk by more than three millimeters (you can prepare all the rivets along the length in advance), and start riveting, i.e. .e. “splash” the part of the rivet protruding from the disk, trying, however, to form a spherical head with hammer blows. It may happen that you have duralumin rivets that bite and rivet very badly. In this case, they need to be placed in something and heated, after first rubbing some of the rivets with laundry soap.

When the soap begins to char, stop heating. After this, the rivets become soft for a while. Then their rigidity is restored. As an anvil, you can use an M8 bolt or pin, which must be clamped in a vice. You must use a small hammer and remember that with strong blows the lining material may crack. Therefore, it is better not to rush. When the linings are riveted, try to rotate them a little with an awl, or at least slightly move the head of each of them. If you fail, it means the job was done well. After this, the outer diameter of the linings must be ground to the diameter of the disk on any lathe, after which, using coarse sandpaper, process all the edges of the linings and the edges of the holes protruding after drilling with a blunt drill. Before installing the disc, be sure to put it on the transmission input shaft and check whether it moves easily along it.

There have been cases when, when turning a disk, a turner used a thrust cone, which slightly crushed the internal splines on the disk. If this happens, the splines must be corrected using a triangular needle file, otherwise after assembly the clutch will “lead”, i.e. you won't be able to shift into gear easily. When you install the clutch disc in place and lightly press it with the basket, use a flat-head screwdriver; move the disk in one direction or another" so that its splined hole is coaxial with the hole at the end of the gearbox input shaft in the center of the flywheel. This can be done using a specially machined "mandrel" or "by eye".

You can put the gearbox in place, then remove it and fully compress the basket bolts, and then install the gearbox again, this time for good. If your car has a hydraulic clutch drive, then after replacing the clutch no adjustment is required. If the clutch is driven by a cable, then it may require minor adjustment, for which all cars with a mechanical clutch drive have a device. Start the engine, fully depress the clutch pedal, engage reverse gear, then, with the clutch depressed, disengage reverse gear and, after waiting three seconds, engage it again. If, when the reverse gear is engaged for the last time, a “growling” is heard in the gearbox, it means that the clutch is not fully depressed, and its free play must be reduced, i.e. tighten the cable. S.V.Kornienko "Repair of Japanese cars"