Reviews about timing chains for UAZ Patriot. We change the timing belt on a UAZ Patriot Iveco (diesel). Timing mechanism assembly

The UAZ Patriot 409 engine from the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant has recently been brought to the Euro-4 environmental standard. In fact, this is an injection 406 engine, which was installed on the Volga and GAZelle. The actual design of the power units is very similar, in addition, the problems of the 406 engine were inherited by the ZMZ 409 engine. Below we offer a description and technical characteristics of the UAZ Patriot 409 engine.

The petrol, in-line, 4-cylinder, 16-valve unit has an aluminum cylinder block (with cast iron liners inside) and an aluminum cylinder head. The cylinder head has two camshafts that rotate via a timing chain drive. The valve mechanism has hydraulic compensators that free you from manually adjusting the thermal clearance of 16 valves.

The gas distribution mechanism of the ZMZ 409 UAZ Patriot engine

The camshafts are cast from cast iron. To achieve high wear resistance of the working surface, the cams were whitened. The shafts rotate in bearings formed by the cylinder head and removable aluminum covers. These covers are machined together with the cylinder head and are therefore not interchangeable. The camshaft drive is a two-stage chain drive. Includes: star 1 crankshaft driven 5 and presenter 6 intermediate shaft sprockets, driven sprockets 12 And 14 camshafts, two chains (72 and 92 links) 4 And 9 , hydraulic tensioners with reinforced spring 2 And 8 , tensioner arms 3 And 7 and chain guides 13 , 16 And 17 . The chain tension of each stage is carried out by hydraulic tensioners located: one on the front cover of the cylinder block (chain cover), the other on the cylinder head.

➤ 1 – crankshaft sprocket ➤ 2 – lower hydraulic tensioner ➤ 3 – lower chain tensioner lever ➤ 4 – lower chain ➤ 5 – driven intermediate shaft sprocket ➤ 6 – driven intermediate shaft sprocket ➤ 7 – upper chain tensioner lever ➤ 8 – hydraulic tensioner upper ➤ 9 – upper chain ➤ 10 – installation mark on the sprocket ➤ 11 – alignment pins ➤ 12 – intake camshaft sprocket ➤ 13 – upper chain guide ➤ 14 – exhaust camshaft sprocket ➤ 15 – upper plane of the cylinder head ➤ 16 – middle chain guide ➤ 17 – lower chain guide ➤ M1 and M2 – installation marks on the block Perhaps it is the complex mechanism of the timing device 409 of the UAZ Patriot engine that causes a lot of trouble when operating the engine. Lack of oil pressure quickly damages hydraulic compensators; it is necessary to carefully monitor the oil level in the engine. And frequent breakdowns of hydraulic chain tensioners cause an unpleasant sound. The problem is solved by installing imported hydraulic tensioners and regularly changing high-quality oil. It is worth noting that the valves are interchangeable with similar valves of the VAZ-2108 engine. Below are the characteristics of the UAZ Patriot gasoline engine.

Engine UAZ Patriot 2.7 ZMZ 409 (128 hp) characteristics, fuel consumption

➤ Displacement – ​​2693 cm3 ➤ Number of cylinders – 4 ➤ Number of valves – 16 ➤ Cylinder diameter – 95.5 mm ➤ Piston stroke – 94 mm ➤ Power hp/kW – 128/94.1 at 4600 rpm ➤ Torque – 209.7 Nm at 2500 rpm ➤ Compression ratio – 9 ➤ Timing type/timing drive – DOHC/chain ➤ Fuel brand – AI 92 gasoline ➤ Ecological class – Euro-4 ➤ Maximum speed – 150 km/h ➤ Acceleration up to 100 km/h – n/a ➤ Fuel consumption in the city – n/a ➤ Fuel consumption in the combined cycle – n/a ➤ Fuel consumption on the highway – 11.5 liters This engine is very voracious, this is perhaps the main problem of the Patriot with this power unit at the moment . A rather outdated design that will not please you with its reliability. However, the price of the new UAZ Patriot makes us turn a blind eye to such disadvantages.

Replacing UAZ Patriot timing chains (instructions, photos) UAZ Patriot (3163-010, 3163-012, 3163-020, 3163-022, 3163-032)

The gas distribution mechanism on the UAZ Patriot car engine performs the function of synchronizing the crankshaft and camshaft, and also sets cycles for opening and closing valves. The efficiency of the engine, its trouble-free and reliable operation depend on its operation. That is why the operation of the timing system of the UAZ Patriot engine is very responsible. So, to increase the reliability of the timing mechanism, a chain drive is used, but it can also stretch or even break over time. As a result, individual parts and the timing chain itself must be replaced approximately every 80,000 km. Here we cannot say about the exact mileage, since it will depend on the operating conditions of the engine. If the engine is worn out, then replacing the chain may be required earlier. Chain wear will be manifested in its “clunking” - a high-frequency sound like from valves. In this article we will provide information on replacing chains and gears of the gas distribution mechanism. It is noteworthy that the timing mechanism of the UAZ Patriot uses 2 chains, conventionally lower and upper. Such a timing mechanism can be considered difficult to maintain, so replacing chains will require increased qualifications from the mechanic who will carry out the work.

The process of replacing timing chains ZMZ 409 Euro 3

Before you start working on the engine, you need to remove the radiator and drive belts of the power steering pump of the generator and pump. Loosen the clamp of the supply hose to the cooling system pump and remove the hose from the fitting. Remove the cylinder head cover. Remove the four bolts and remove the front cylinder head cover assembly with the fan drive clutch and fan (the viscous clutch and fan have been removed for clarity). Remove the water pump Remove the crankshaft speed sensor (synchronization sensor) Remove the crankshaft pulley (see “Replacing the UAZ Patriot crankshaft oil seals”). Remove the oil sump (see “Replacing the UAZ Patroit engine crankcase”). Remove the two bolts and remove the upper chain hydraulic tensioner cover with the gasket. Remove the cover carefully, as it is affected by the hydraulic tensioner spring. Then remove the hydraulic tensioner. Also remove the lower chain hydraulic tensioner. Remove the 7 bolts and chain cover. Remove the cover carefully so as not to damage the front crankshaft oil seal installed in it, the cover gaskets and the cylinder head gasket. Remove 1 bolt of the upper tensioner and remove the tensioner arm along with the sprocket. Also remove the lower tensioner arm. Also with an asterisk. Unscrew the 2 bolts and remove the plastic chain guide. Remove the gears from the camshafts by removing the bolts securing the gears to the camshaft flanges. Here you will need a puller. Unscrew the bolts 2 and lift up the chain guide 1. Bend the ends of the locking plate 6 and turn out the bolt 5, to do this, hold the intermediate shaft from turning by inserting a screwdriver into the hole of gear 3. Remove gear 4 by inserting a screwdriver between it and gear 3 and resting the screwdriver as a lever against gear 3. Remove gear 4 from the top chain and remove the chain by pulling it up. Remove gear 3 from the intermediate shaft and remove it from the lower chain. Remove the lower chain from the crankshaft gear.

If it is necessary to remove gear 2 from the crankshaft, first remove bushing 1 and the rubber O-ring between the bushing and gear. Then compress gear 2. The gears are removed using a puller.

After removal, wash the chains and gears in gasoline, wipe and dry them. Inspect the chains. If the chain bushings are cracked, chipped, or show significant wear, replace the chains. Replace gears whose teeth are chipped or chipped. Replace damaged chain guides. The tensioner sprockets must rotate freely on the axles. If the sprocket teeth are chipped or chipped, replace the tensioners.

Assembling the timing mechanism and installing timing chains of the UAZ Patriot (recommended tightening torques and tension)

If you removed the gear from the crankshaft, press it onto the crankshaft, install the O-ring and bushing. Rotate the crankshaft so that mark 1 on the crankshaft gear aligns with mark 2 on the cylinder block. In this case, the piston of the 1st cylinder will take the TDC position. Install chain guide 4 without tightening bolts 3 securing the guide. Place chain 5 on the crankshaft gear, having previously lubricated it with engine oil.

Place the chain on driven gear 1 and install the gear on the countershaft 2 so that the pinion pin fits into the countershaft hole. In this case, mark 4 on the gear must coincide with mark 5 on the cylinder block, and the chain branch passing through damper 3 must be tensioned.

Install the countershaft drive gear so that its locating pin fits into the hole in the driven gear. Screw in the two bolts securing the intermediate shaft gears, placing a locking plate under them. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 22–25 N/m (2.2–2.5 kgf/m) and secure them by bending the edges of the locking plate on the edge of the bolt heads. By pressing the tensioner lever, tension the chain and check the alignment of the marks on the gears and the cylinder block.

Tighten the chain guide mounting bolts.

Lubricate the upper chain with engine oil and then slide it onto the countershaft drive gear through the hole in the cylinder head. Place the chain on gear 2 and, turning the exhaust camshaft slightly clockwise, install gear 2 with the chain on it. The camshaft pin 8 should fit into the gear hole. Screw in bolt 1. Turn the camshaft using a wrench using the square on the camshaft. Then, slightly turn the camshaft counterclockwise to tighten the chain. The intermediate and crankshafts should not turn. Mark A should coincide with the top surface of the cylinder head. Remove bolt 6 and remove gear 4 from the intake camshaft. Place the chain on gear 4 and install gear 4 with the chain on the camshaft by turning the camshaft slightly clockwise. The camshaft pin 5 should fit into the gear hole. Turn the camshaft slightly counterclockwise to tighten the chain. Mark A on gear 4 should align with the top surface of the cylinder head. The remaining shafts should not rotate. Screw in bolt 6. Tighten bolts 1 and 6 to a torque of 46–74 N/m (4.6–7.4 kgf/m), holding the camshafts from turning with a key using the squares. Install damper 3 by pushing it into the hole in the cylinder head. Install damper 7. Reinstall the chain cover and water pump. Apply a thin layer of sealant to the sealing surfaces of the cylinder block and cylinder head sealing surfaces. Reinstall the cover carefully so as not to damage the seal. Install the hydraulic tensioners of the upper and lower chains, see “Assembly (“charging”) and installation of hydraulic chain tensioners”. Install the crankshaft pulley. Screw in the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt, then, engaging fifth gear and braking the car with the parking brake, tighten the bolt to a torque of 104–128 N/m (10.4–12.8 kgf/m), holding the crankshaft from turning. When the ratchet is tightened, the pulley is pressed onto the crankshaft. Turn the crankshaft two turns using the ratchet and set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position (see operation 3). Check that the marks match. Install the front cylinder head cover, first apply a layer of Hermesil sealant to the surface of the cover adjacent to the cylinder head. Tighten the cover fastening bolts to a torque of 12–18 N/m (1.2–1.8 kgf/m). Install the cylinder head cover. Tighten the cover mounting bolts to a torque of 6.0–12 N/m (0.6–1.2 kgf/m). Connect the hose and crankcase ventilation tube to the fittings on the valve cover, and the wires to the ignition coils. Place the ends of the high-voltage wires on the spark plugs. Install the previously removed belts and radiator of the cooling system.

In engines of the ZMZ-409 family, depending on the year of manufacture and modification of the engine, there are differences in the camshaft drive. It can use single-row or double-row bushing chains or single-row toothed chains. There are some differences in the camshafts themselves.

Timing camshaft drive of the ZMZ-40905 engine.

The camshaft drive of the ZMZ-40905 engine consists of a 29-tooth crankshaft sprocket, a 46-tooth driven sprocket and a 23-tooth driven intermediate shaft sprocket, 29-tooth camshaft sprockets, two toothed chains: the lower one - 84 links. upper 108 links, hydraulic tensioners, chain tension shoes and chain stabilizers. The chain tension of each stage is carried out by hydraulic tensioners.

For proper assembly of the camshaft drive and setting the valve timing, there are marks on the crankshaft sprocket, driven sprocket of the intermediate shaft, and camshaft sprockets.

When installing the drive, the marks M1, M2 on the cylinder block must coincide with the marks on the sprockets of the crankshaft and intermediate shaft. The marks on the camshaft sprockets should be directed in different directions outside the engine and coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder block.

This position of the camshafts and crankshafts corresponds to the piston of the first cylinder being at TDC on the compression stroke. The position of the piston of the first cylinder at TDC can also be determined by the coincidence of the marks on the damper disk of the crankshaft pulley with the protrusion on the chain cover.

The sprockets of the intake and exhaust camshafts of the camshaft drive with toothed chains are not interchangeable. To distinguish them from each other, two installation marks are stamped on the intake camshaft sprocket; there is only one mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket.

The intermediate shaft drive sprocket is made of steel and carbon-nitrided to increase hardness and wear resistance. The sprockets of the crankshaft, camshafts and driven sprocket of the intermediate shaft are made of high-strength cast iron.

Timing camshaft drive of the ZMZ-40904 engine.

The camshaft drive of the ZMZ-40904 engine is the same as on the ZMZ-40905 engine, with the exception that on the early ZMZ-40904.10 engines the camshaft drive was used not on toothed chains, but on two single-row or double-row bushing chains: lower - 72 links, the top - 92 links, and tensioners with an asterisk instead of chain tension shoes. That is, the same as previously on the ZMZ-409.10 engine.

Timing camshaft drive of the ZMZ-40911 engine.

The camshaft drive of the ZMZ-40911 engine is the same as on the ZMZ-40904 and ZMZ-40905 engines. The differences in camshaft drive concern only the camshafts themselves.

Replacement of single-row bushing chains of the ZMZ-409 timing camshaft drive with double-row or toothed chains.

When replacing single-row bushing chains for camshaft drives with double-row chains, it is necessary to replace all sprockets, hydraulic tensioners and tensioners with sprockets, and when replacing them with toothed chains, it is necessary to change all sprockets, chain guides, and instead of tensioners with sprockets, install chain tensioning shoes.

Replacement of double-row bushing chains of the ZMZ-409 timing camshaft drive with toothed chains and vice versa.

When replacing double-row bushing chains for camshaft drives with toothed chains, or vice versa, toothed chains with double-row bushing chains, all sprockets, chain guides, and hydraulic tensioners must be replaced. Sprocket tensioners are replaced with chain tension shoes or vice versa.

Camshafts of the gas distribution mechanism ZMZ-40904, ZMZ-40905 and ZMZ-40911.

The camshafts of all engine models are cast from special alloy cast iron. To achieve high wear resistance of working surfaces, whitening of the jaws is used. The shafts rotate at half the speed of the crankshaft in bearings formed by the cylinder head and removable aluminum covers.

The camshafts are kept from axial movements by thrust half-rings made of polyamide, which fit into the grooves on the front support journal of the shafts and the front camshaft cover.

In engines ZMZ-40904 and ZMZ-40905 The intake and exhaust camshafts have the same cam profile and provide a valve lift of 9 mm.

On the ZMZ-40911 engine The intake and exhaust camshafts have different cam profiles and provide a lift of 8 mm for the intake valves and 9 mm for the exhaust valves.

A metal plate is attached to the rear end of the exhaust camshaft, which serves to supply pulses

The topic of the article is the ZMZ 406 timing belt. We will talk about a set with double-row chains. When a standard car comes to replace the timing belt, that’s one thing. When a UAZ Patriot arrives on 33 wheels or a medical gazelle with a ton of equipment on top of the dry mass, it’s different. To the question what to put? Single-row chain, double-row, or keep the wonderful gear-plate design? The answer is clear: double-row chains. But there is a stalemate on the market, when there is nothing decent, but cars need to be made. For this reason, the ZMZ 406, 405, 409 timing kit was born, which I offer to your attention.

Timing belt ZMZ 406, situation

I have changed several dozen timing belts on these engines with my own hands and have a fairly good idea of ​​the situation in my region (St. Petersburg and the surrounding area). What clients brought in “factory boxes” or with magical names of double and tenfold resource, I, of course, installed, but I took a receipt from people in which I warned that I did not like the quality, even visually. Very often they brought kits from the Progress company. But they have their own problem. Almost every set was individual. There were no identical sets. Either different manufacturers of chains, or not the same gears that were “yesterday”. Accordingly, quality floats like a “violet in an ice hole.” Rusmash produces good kits, but they do not make adjustable stars. The best, in my opinion, are the Rhodes-M kits (Medvedev I.A.), but unfortunately they are poorly available for logistical reasons. Today there is, and then for a couple of months there may be a failure in delivery. Sometimes more. Based on these reasons, it was decided to assemble a kit for clients and services, which can be given a decent guarantee, and most importantly, meets modern technical requirements. And I also tried to implement what was asked from all over Russia. The kit should include EVERYTHING that may be needed for replacement, including a cuff, gaskets, half rings, and you can even order additional ones. That is, to carry out a major overhaul of the gas distribution mechanism and forget about it for a very long time.

Timing belt ZMZ 406, my version

1. 4 stars (Rusmash). .
2. Tensioner shoes (Rusmash or Rhodes-M)
3. Tensioners 2 pcs. (Rusmash)
4. Euro-2 dampers
5. Crankshaft seal
6. Set of gaskets (pump and tensioner gaskets, 2 chain cover gaskets)

"Leningrad set" timing belt for ZMZ 406, 405, 409

In the extended version, the kit is supplemented with a bottle of brake cleaner, sealant and medium-grade thread locker. This is all that I use when replacing timing belts on these engines. I have already described a lot of this list separately on the pages of the site. I will dwell on those points that have not been encountered before or are quite important when replacing the timing belt.

Spare parts may include a pump and a flush valve. But if the pump can then always be installed in a couple of hours, then replacing the oil seal means a new one, complete disassembly of the timing belt. Therefore, if the engine mileage is close to “one hundred” or more, find out in advance which store has a high-quality spare part. If you don’t need it, it’s good; if you need it, you’ll know where to buy it. The kit was tested in an ambulance. The inspection was carried out at 50 and 100 thousand kilometers. In the ambulance with the speed of running in round-the-clock operation, there are no problems)) Most of all I was interested in “chain pulling”. The camshafts “ran away” by 1-2 degrees over a given mileage from the initial setting. Which is within the margin of error. I was satisfied with this result.

Question answer

• What warranty do you provide for this kit?

When I install this kit myself, I give a guarantee from 3 months to six months without mileage limitation, depending on the remaining condition of the engine. Of course, when it comes to our vast homeland, such guarantees would be stupid on my part. But I hope this reflects to customers the approximate reliability of the kit.

• Is it possible or not to purchase part of this kit?

Maybe. For example, a client wants to re-rivet Mercedes chains, install different sprockets or tensioners. In this case, the price of the kit is calculated individually and of course there can be no guarantees on my part.

• Do the components in this set change or not?

As I said above, for me personally, a similar approach from other manufacturers irritates and causes misunderstanding. Therefore, the main components of this set are unchanged. During the year of sales, compared to the initial photo, I only changed the chain tensioners. By replacing the tensioners with a wear indicator in the kits with regular ones without an indicator (from the same manufacturer). This was due to common sense logic: why do we need a wear indicator on the new “zero” double-row chains? Which may be needed after several years of operation. And the pricing of the kit is also an important thing.

Many experienced motorists claim that replacing the timing belt on a UAZ Patriot diesel Iveco should be done every hundred thousand kilometers. This figure is approximate and largely depends on how the vehicle was used.

On some models a timing chain is installed. It is claimed that its resource is greater than that of a belt, but this is not always the case. As practice shows, in some cases the need for replacement occurs after fifty thousand kilometers. In any case, the time to replace the chain must be determined by its condition and regularly checked visually for damage and for loose tension. Also, are there any damage to the tension rollers?

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Cases when replacement is necessary

The timing belt on a UAZ Patriot on an Iveco diesel engine must be changed if the mileage specified in the instructions is reached. If oil stains, worn teeth or delaminations are found.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the belt

The change process is simple, but it will require removing additional components and some rollers, so be careful.

Tools

• a set of keys;
• new tension rollers (they may need to be replaced);
• screwdriver.

Stages

1. First you need to remove the generator and air conditioning compressor.
2. After unscrewing the fastenings, you need to release the generator, and then move it away so that it does not interfere.
3. Now you need to unscrew and remove the fan impeller. We also remove the diffuser.
4. We remove the fan drive by unscrewing the locknut under the manifold.
5. Now you need to remove the idler roller and tensioner.
6. Next, remove the tension device.
7. Remove the pulley from the crankshaft by first unscrewing the four bolts.
8. Remove the timing cover.
9. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. It is necessary that the mark on the crankshaft is at 9.00, and on the camshaft at 12.00.
10. Next you need to fix the shafts.
11. To fix the crankshaft, you need to unscrew the plug and insert a screwdriver into the hole.
12. Many motorists fix the camshaft using a drill of a suitable diameter inserted into the pulley hole.
13. Now you need to unscrew the bolt of the tension device and remove it.
14. Next you can remove the belt.
15. We move on to the final stage of installing a new timing belt.
16. When installing a new one, make sure that its marks coincide with the marks on the crankshaft at 9.00, as well as with the mark on the camshaft pulley at 12.00.
17. Install the tensioner.
18. When tightening the belt, you need to make sure that the point coincides with the cutout or goes into tension.
19. We put the removed parts back in place, and do not forget to lubricate the rollers.

This video shows how the timing belt on a UAZ Patriot is removed in a matter of minutes.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the chain

Replacing a chain is not the easiest job in car servicing, but after reading our material and watching the video, you will certainly be able to handle it.

Tools

Stages

Metal products from China have never been particularly reliable, and this also applies to tension rollers.

The work of replacing a belt or chain on a UAZ is not difficult in itself, but requires certain skills and attention. Therefore, it would be useful if a more experienced partner backed you up for the first time. Also, if you are unsure of your own abilities and are afraid that you might mix something up, film the disassembly process on camera. Then it will be easier to collect. Place the removed parts in pre-prepared boxes and jars. It often happens that some bolt, roller or washer gets lost, so be careful and attentive.

In the future, when operating the car, try to follow all the regulatory measures specified in the instructions that come with the car. Get your car diagnosed in a timely manner at a service station and your car will operate properly and uninterruptedly for many years.

You will need: a 6-point hex key, 12-point, 13-point, 14-point sockets, a small chisel, and a hammer.

1. Drain the cooling system (see “Replacing the coolant”).

2. Remove the radiator of the cooling system (see “Removing and installing the radiator”).

3. Remove the power steering pump drive belt and fan pulley (see “Replacing the power steering pump drive belt and cooling fan drive viscous clutch”).

4. Remove the generator and water pump drive belt (see “Replacing the generator and water pump drive belt”).

9. Remove the crankshaft speed sensor (synchronization sensor) (see “Engine management system sensors”).

10. Remove the crankshaft pulley (see “Replacing the crankshaft oil seals”).

11. Remove the oil sump (see “Replacing the oil sump seal”).

14. Remove the seven bolts and remove the chain cover. Remove the cover carefully so as not to damage the front crankshaft oil seal installed in it, the cover gaskets and the cylinder head gasket.

15. Remove the upper tensioner bolt and remove the tensioner lever with sprocket.

16. Similarly, remove the lower tensioner arm with the sprocket.

19. Unscrew the bolts 2 and lift up the chain guide 1. Bend the ends of the locking plate 6 and turn out the bolt 5, to do this, hold the intermediate shaft from turning by inserting a screwdriver into the hole of gear 3. Remove gear 4 by inserting a screwdriver between it and gear 3 and resting the screwdriver as a lever against gear 3. Remove gear 4 from the top chain and remove the chain by pulling it up. Remove gear 3 from the intermediate shaft and remove it from the lower chain. Remove the lower chain from the crankshaft gear.

20. If it is necessary to remove gear 2 from the crankshaft, first remove bushing 1 and the rubber sealing ring between the bushing and the gear. Then compress gear 2 using a puller.

21. After removal, wash the chains and gears in gasoline, wipe and dry them.

22. Inspect the chains. If the chain bushings are cracked, chipped, or show significant wear, replace the chains.

23. Replace gears whose teeth are chipped or chipped.

24. Replace damaged chain guides.

25. The tensioner sprockets must rotate freely on the axles. If the sprocket teeth are chipped or chipped, replace the tensioners.

26. If you removed the gear from the crankshaft, press it onto the crankshaft, install the O-ring and bushing.

27. Rotate the crankshaft so that mark 1 on the crankshaft gear aligns with mark 2 on the cylinder block. In this case, the piston of the 1st cylinder will take the TDC position. Install chain guide 4 without tightening bolts 3 securing the guide. Place chain 5 on the crankshaft gear, having previously lubricated it with engine oil.	28. Place the chain on driven gear 1 and install the gear on the countershaft 2 so that the gear locating pin fits into the hole in the countershaft. In this case, mark 4 on the gear must coincide with mark 5 on the cylinder block, and the chain branch passing through damper 3 must be tensioned.

29. Install the countershaft drive gear so that its locating pin fits into the hole in the driven gear.

30. Screw in the two bolts securing the intermediate shaft gears, placing a locking plate under them. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 22–25 N·m (2.2–2.5 kgf·m) and secure them by bending the edges of the locking plate on the edge of the bolt heads.

31. Press the tensioner lever, tighten the chain and check the alignment of the marks on the gears and the cylinder block.

32. Tighten the chain guide bolts.

33. Lubricate the upper chain with engine oil and then slide it onto the countershaft drive gear through the hole in the cylinder head.

34. Place the chain on gear 2 and, turning the exhaust camshaft slightly clockwise, install gear 2 with the chain on it. The camshaft pin 8 should fit into the gear hole. Screw in bolt 1. Turn the camshaft using a wrench using the square on the camshaft. Then, slightly turn the camshaft counterclockwise to tighten the chain. The intermediate and crankshafts should not turn. Mark A should coincide with the top surface of the cylinder head. Remove bolt 6 and remove gear 4 from the intake camshaft. Place the chain on gear 4 and install gear 4 with the chain on the camshaft by turning the camshaft slightly clockwise. The camshaft pin 5 should fit into the gear hole. Turn the camshaft slightly counterclockwise to tighten the chain. Mark A on gear 4 should align with the top surface of the cylinder head. The remaining shafts should not rotate. Screw in bolt 6. Tighten bolts 1 and 6 to a torque of 46–74 N·m (4.6–7.4 kgf·m), holding the camshafts from turning with a key using the squares. Install damper 3 by pushing it into the hole in the cylinder head. Install damper 7.

35. Install the chain cover and water pump. Apply a thin layer of Hermesil sealant or similar to the surfaces of the covers adjacent to the cylinder block and head. When installing the chain cover, be careful not to damage the crankshaft oil seal.

36. Install the hydraulic tensioners of the upper and lower chains, see “Assembly (“charging”) and installation of hydraulic chain tensioners”. Install the crankshaft pulley. Screw in the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt, then, engaging fifth gear and braking the car with the parking brake, tighten the bolt to a torque of 104–128 N·m (10.4–12.8 kgf·m), holding the crankshaft from turning. When the ratchet is tightened, the pulley is pressed onto the crankshaft.

37. Turn the crankshaft two turns using the ratchet and set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position (see operation 3). Check that the marks match.

38. Install the front cylinder head cover; first apply a layer of Hermesil sealant to the surface of the cover adjacent to the cylinder head. Tighten the cover mounting bolts to a torque of 12–18 N·m (1.2–1.8 kgf·m).

39. Install the cylinder head cover. Tighten the cover mounting bolts to a torque of 6.0–12 N·m (0.6–1.2 kgf·m). Connect the hose and crankcase ventilation tube to the fittings on the valve cover, and the wires to the ignition coils. Place the ends of the high-voltage wires on the spark plugs.

40. Install the previously removed attachments.